OUTDOOR GEAR
...and now,
the process...
Made from waffle fleece, this casual hoody has gusseted raglan sleeves, a kangaroo pocket, and cozy scuba hood.
design | features and fit
SLEEVE: gusseted raglan sleeve for mobility and comfort
CUFF: design that keeps warmth in without constricting mobility
HOOD: scuba hood that cinches around face without compromising vision
POCKET: subtle kangaroo pocket design
prototyping | basic block + first prototype
basic raglan sweatshirt prototype - pattern drafted from own measurements
HOOD prototyping | basic block / version 2 + 3 modifications
V1: BASIC BLOCK PATTERN
V1: BASIC BLOCK PROTOTYPE
V2: better fit around the face but now too tight
V2 PATTERN
when attached to body, hood V2 pulls up back of hoody and makes it hard to turn head. Too slim fitting for a midlayer.
V3: happy with fit.
enough room in the hood to turn head without pulling at the body
V3 PATTERN
HOOD prototyping | functional prototype
doesn't block peripherals when cinched
doesn't cinch around mouth but covers chin
fitted and cozy around head but not tight
front panel avoids seam in front of chin
wearable prototype using similar fabric to final design
hood lined in thinner contrasting blue waffle fleece
peripherals not blocked even when cinched
extreme coziness without bunching at front
loop cord less annoying around face
SLEEVE prototyping | drafting the basic raglan sleeve
V1 PATTERN
V1 PROTOTYPE: no gusset
V2 SLEEVE: too full, needs more taper to cuff
V2 sleeve pattern changes: arm gusset added
V2 PATTERN
V3 SLEEVE PATTERN CHANGES: narrower through arm
V3 SLEEVE: more tapered fit but still rounding in inner arm
V3 PATTERN
V4
V4 SLEEVE PATTERN CHANGES: inside sleeve seam curves inward for closer fit
V4 PATTERN
V4 SLEEVE + FULL BODY CONSTRUCTION: Sleeve still gives roomy fit but tapers with arm shape and articulates with body.
CUFF prototyping | cuff design development
V1 CUFF
V2 CUFF
V3 CUFF
V4 CUFF: Double track cord casing makes for really nice and even cinch, although not sure about frilly look.
CONSTRUCTION CHALLENGE: Cord casing is sewn into cuff before sewing it into thumb panel. This makes for messy exposed seams inside. Can I sew casing after cuff is assembled in order to sew thumb panel inside cuff outside?
V5 CUFF: shock cord casing sewn into cuff AFTER cuff panel is sewn into thumb panel. This means thumb panel can be sandwiched between outer cuff and seams end up hidden.
CONSTRUCTION CHALLENGE: How to insert cord into track and get it around the bend. Shown here: hole on inside where cord can exit and enter again to make insertion easier - not a very refined design solution.
Can I get get the shock cord through the casing and around the bend?
CORD TEST PROTOTYPE: A pain in the ass to assemble but actually works quite well...
double track makes even cinch
shock cord is not sewn into side seam, meaning thumb panel can be sewn into cuff and seams are sandwiched inside
thumb hole to keep sleeve in place and warmth inside
FULL prototype | ready for testing
V6 CUFF: functional prototype
functional prototype made from a similar fleece weight
gusset design to date
gusset adds nice amount of height and mobility but construction order makes this hard to sew.
product testing | key changes
Notes after a couple weeks of testing:
THUMB HOLE: restricts movement and doesn't add enough warmth to be justified.
CINCH: big toggle annoying. Design may be overkill. Change to smaller cinch?
BODY: bring side seams forward and change to taper inward.
GUSSET: functional fit but was illogical to sew. We can do better.
POCKETS: Add kangaroo pocket into side seams.
prototyping | sleeve re-design
decided to redesign the sleeve with a round gusset for a better fit and ease of construction.
ROUND GUSSET V1: Weird shape and too far back in arm. Unnecessary room in the back and still pulling in armpit front where it should be articulating.
Need to add taper inward around waist as well.
ROUND GUSSET V2: gusset placement better but sleeve still slightly too wide.
ROUND GUSSET V3: happy with fit.
new side seams work better for subtle pocket placement.
more taper in body with side seams farther forward.
Pattern | final body and sleeve pattern
gusset is easy to sew and adds space and lift under arm
Sleeve loose enough for under layer but not baggy
side seam creates V shape in body and allows for discreet kangaroo pocket
Prototyping | cuff development
CUFF V6
Prototyping | more cuff development!
V7 CUFF: no thumb hole, cinch can now be in smaller panel, and larger can sandwich inside seams, solving previous construction challenge.
Still slightly too wide.
V8 CUFF: narrower cinch section - only need a small amount of cinch to tighten cuff around wrist..
Rectangle cinch panel looks untidy when tightened.
V8 CUFF: angled cinch section creates a rectangle when tightened which looks cleaner.
V10 CUFF: solves the bumps created by sandwiching cinch panel inside outer cuff but makes for a bumpy cinch and was very hard to construct.
V11 CUFF: really happy with materials and cinch mechanism.
Still needs some tweaks but almost there...
